Dapper Classics Revisited

Over the course of this blog’s life, I’ve tried to spread the wealth, sampling American made wares from a variety of companies.

But there are some companies and some products I keep coming back to.

Dapper Classics and their exceptional socks are prominent among those.

A few weeks ago, before heading over to Manready Mercantile for White Linen night, I made a brief detour to Houston’s Norton Ditto.

Norton Ditto deserves a mention for a fairly robust commitment to stocking American made goods. Hickey Freeman Suits. Trafalgar suspenders. Alden shoes. Robert Talbott ties. And, yes, Dapper Classic socks.

While at Norton Ditto, I picked up two pair of cotton over the calf Dapper Classics socks (adding to the ten already in my collection). I’m also fond of American made socks from American Trench and Boardroom Socks (Fox River Socks for outdoor pursuits), but Dapper Classics, given their tendency toward bright colors and whimsical designs, are unequivocally my favorite.

IMG_4325

dapperclassics

New Trafalgar Suspenders

In the long winter where outsourcing drained most of the life out of American manufacturing, Trafalgar remained a stalwart, largely resisting the impulse to relocate production overseas.

Today, virtually all of its suspenders continue to be made in the United States. I say “virtually.” Because one model–a tweed herringbone–is made in China. And this is cause for concern.

The past generation teaches a harrowing lesson: Once the genie of outsourcing has been unleashed from its bottle, it’s all but impossible to put it back.

So I wonder, is the lone Chinese made pair an anomaly? Or is it a harbinger of darker things on the horizon. For it would be a shame–truly a shame–if a company like Trafalgar lost its way.

A few weeks ago, I acquired a fourth pair of Trafalgar suspenders.

Made, of course, in the USA, they are wonderful in every respect. A navy silk herringbone, they feature nickel hardware and richly colored dark brown tabs.

IMG_4335

IMG_4389

Trafalgar’s primary competition is Albert Thurston out of the UK. For my money, Trafalgar is the superior of the two options. Thurston, onec the definitive option for suspenders, seems to be riding on the coattails of a faded glory. The most recent examples I’ve seen from Thurston are a pale imitation of what it once was.

New F.H. Wadsworth Belt

A few months ago, I reported on my first F.H. Wadsworth belt. A grosgrain ribbon, D-ring version, it has a favored spot among my belts, running neck-and-neck with Leather Man Ltd. for my affections.

Given that the F.H. Wadsworth belts come in more than 30 color combinations, it’s only natural that I would add another to my collection. Classic and colorful, they’re the perfect accent to any self-respecting prep’s outfit.

IMG_4393
My newest F.H. Wadsworth belt

IMG_4412

In fact, I’m going to go out on the proverbial limb here. If you, in any way, fashion yourself a partisan of the prep/trad/ivy/WASP look, at least one of these belts must be a part of your collection. They are that essential.

Gurkha Shorts

Like many things we’ve featured on Classic American Style, the Gurkha short has military antecedents, hearkening back to the legendary Nepalese colonial military regiment. It was, for many years, the short of choice for British soldiers operating in our world’s tropical latitudes. With its high, dual strap waist band, forward pleats and wide legs, it was both stylish and functional.

gurkha
Nepalese recruits in the British Army, wearing the venerable Gurkha short

In the mid 1980s, the short gained an unlikely degree of popularity on this side of the pond, with a young company called Banana Republic largely responsible for its introduction into the American sartorial zeitgeist. For some years, the J. Peterman catalogue also featured a reasonably authentic version. And recently, Tokyo-based Beams+ had a version, although it no longer appears to be part of their collection.

brxmas84026
A page from the old Banana Republic catalogue, with Gurkha shorts featured on the lower right

Today, military surplus is about the only option for those among us seeking a reasonable facsimile of the original Gurkha short. And that is how I found my pair–combing the shelves of a now defunct militariana store in my hometown.

IMG_4197
Yours truly wearing a pair of Gurkha shorts along with a madras button down from Gitman Vintage and a pair of Rancourt penny loafers

I’m the first to admit that the Gurkha short is more classically British than American, but much of what makes up classic American style has roots in Albion. I think the Gurkha and the venerable Bermuda short are the only acceptable options for climates where even the lightest of trouser is too much fabric.

New Union Clothing

Last weekend, I attended  White Linen Night, an annual  festival on 19th Street in the Houston Heights, where we get to pretend that wearing linen makes the brutal Southeast Texas summer somehow more bearable. It does, but only marginally so.

My favorite shop on 19th Street (actually, my favorite shop in all of Houston) is Manready Mercantile, a men’s store with a vibrant commitment to stocking American made goods.

Manready, as is its wonderful habit, pulled out all the stops for White Linen Night. Cocktails. Music. And its usual wonderful collection of domestically manufactured clothing and accessories.

manready
White Linen Night at Manready Mercantile

That evening, Manready also featured a pop-up shop from New Union Clothing. Manready’s Travis had posted about the New Union pop-up on Instagram, and I was eager to see their wares in the flesh (or the cloth).

I was not disappointed.

Although New Union has plans for a broader product line, its initial collection is focused exclusively on shirts–divided about equally between long and short sleeves.

And they are something amazing.

The shirts are made in California from Japanese fabrics, with details that have been well and truly thought out. A button down collar with enough substance to have a proper roll. Sleeves that are trim in the way that I’ve only found before on custom shirts. Shoulder seams that hit exactly where they should. Thick mother of pearl buttons. Side gussets.

Being the eager beaver that I am, I was on hand as Manready opened its doors, and I made a beeline to the New Union pop-up. I ended up being New Union’s first customer ever (aside from the obligatory friends and family).

I ended up buying a blue and white bengal stripe button down. The stripes on the collar orient atypically, and the top of the front pocket angles upward toward the shoulder. They’re both nice touches, interesting modern updates to a shirt still rooted firmly in the classics.

IMG_4307
In my new New Union button down shirt
IMG_4224
An interesting spin on the classic button down collar
IMG_4223
More interesting, modern touches

New Union’s collection includes several other shirts, including versions with a banded collar (a look, frankly, I just can’t pull off). I have my eye on a light blue chambray pullover with an extreme cutaway collar.

One item of note: The shirts are cut slim. Very slim. I’m normally a medium in non-custom men’s shirts–even in collections, like Gitman Vintage, that advertise a trim fit. But in New Union, I was a large. So if you’re uncertain what size to pick, I recommend you size up.

IMG_4321
A trim fit, even in a size large

It was truly a pleasure to meet Alfredo and Kaylene, the husband and wife team behind New Union. They are two of the finest people you could ever hope to meet, and their passion for what they’re doing truly shines through. It’s taken them two years to get to the point of offering their first collection; I think that kind of determination is something to celebrate.

newunion
New Union’s Alfredo and Kaylene Rojas, with their first collection

Over the past couple of years I’ve been running this blog, I’ve come across many items I’ve been passionate about. But I can’t remember when I’ve been this excited about an offering from a new American company.

What Doesn’t Work: Bills Khakis Polo Shirt

Here on Classic American Style, we tend to focus on those things that work well. And, given the exceptionally high standard that defines most American made products, that’s been a fairly easy task.

But sometimes we encounter products that don’t live up to our expectations.

Last year, I purchased (on a fairly deep discount) a polo shirt from Bills Khakis. Those of you who have been with us for a while will know of our affection for Bills Khakis.

In fact, I have several things from Bills: a pair of the original M1 khakis, a pair of green poplin M2 pants, a pair of seersucker M2 pants, a pair of broadcloth critter pants and three pairs of boxer shorts. Each of these has served me well, and I’m pleased to include them in my wardrobe.

I was hopeful that the shirt would embody the same high standards I’ve come to expect from Bills.

No such luck.

My beef is neither with the fabric nor the construction. Both seem to be top notch.

Where I find the shirt lacking is in the design. I purchased a medium (I hover somewhere between a medium and a large) because I like a slightly slimmer fit in a polo shirt. The torso is reasonably slim, but the sleeves are preposterously long, hitting at my elbow, and they billow out as if intended to fit arms twice the diameter of mine.  And the shoulder seam  droops down a couple of inches below where it should hit, which is particularly surprising given that I have fairly broad shoulders for my frame.

IMG_4219
An ill-fitting polo; note shoulder seams and sleeves

Frankly, I can’t imagine what body shape this would fit–someone with a torso like Donatello’s David, linebacker shoulders and Paul Bunyan arms. I note that the polos are still being offered for sale on Bills’ website. My recommendation: steer clear.

A Southern Gentleman

Last weekend, I was running a few errands when a fellow customer caught sight of me in my American made duds and declared that I was “a true southern gentleman.” Being the self effacing sort that I am, I demurred at his complement.

I am not, by my reckoning, a gentleman. Someday, maybe. But for now, I’m still a little too rough around the edges to call myself a true gentleman.

IMG_4178
A southern gentleman? Not quite.

But even the “southern” part of his adulation felt a little off.

Truth be told, my affections lie north of the Mason-Dixon line. Although I’ve lived in the South for all but a few of my years, my family hails from our country’s northern latitudes. The values that inform my life–thrift, discretion, probity–were passed down from my Puritan forebears, some of the earliest arrivals in the Massachusetts Bay Colony.

And despite my superficial resemblance to a Southern gentleman that morning, not one stitch of my outfit was made in the South. Rancourt penny loafers made in Maine. My New England Shirt Company shirt made in Massachusetts. A Leather Man Ltd. motif belt made in Connecticut. Bills Khakis seersucker trousers made in Pennsylvania. And an Optimo Hats panama straw made in Chicago.

In fact, very little of what I own is made in the south. Of course my custom Hamilton Shirts are made in Houston. But I know of just a few others. Criquet Shirts made in El Paso, suspenders from The Cordial Churchman made in South Carolina, Boardroom Socks made in North Carolina, ditto my High Cotton polos. But I’d be hard pressed to conjure up any other non custom items from my closet that were assembled by southern hands.

The South has been particularly hard hit by the exodus of manufacturing jobs to foreign locales. And the North has always had a more vigorous manufacturing base, which, in isolated pockets, it has tried hard to retain.

Pointer Brand Jacket

It’s the jacket that almost wasn’t.

Or, more accurately, it’s the jacket that was, then wasn’t, then was again in a very big way.

Although popular in Japan (as are many examples of American made workwear), the Pointer Brand jacket/chore coat was a sartorial prophet without honor in its own country, little known outside the town (Bristol, Tenn.) where it’s made.

pointer3

Constructed from a tan cotton duck and sturdy as nails, it’s the perfect shoulder season jacket for all manner of physical labor.

pointer2

pointer1

Despite its utilitarian advantages, the jacket fell out of vogue; production was halted on it for more than a year. But then it found itself on the back of the right trendsetter, an Internet style blogger who Johnny Appleseeded the jacket back into prominence. Soon, a new audience was clamoring for what was once a jacket favored almost exclusively by those who worked with their hands.

Ostensibly, being a creature of pure function, the jacket exists beyond the vicissitudes of fashion. But, like the venerable U.S. Navy pea coat, the L.L. Bean Maine Hunting Shoe and the buffalo check flannel shirt, such things have a way of reinsinuating themselves  into the zeitgeist. This is particularly so when your audience is hungry for its own little manufactured slice of blue collar authenticity–a bit of what the French call nostalgie de la boue.

I don’t much cotton to the whole workwear-as-streetwear aesthetic, but my son Andrew does. So when his birthday rolled around this year, he found himself the delighted owner a Pointer Brand jacket.

Unfortunately, Andrew’s birthday falls smack dab in the middle of the always brutal Texas summer, so his first wearing of the jacket was held in abeyance until our trip to Colorado, where cooler temperatures prevail. This is particularly so in Breckenridge, our second destination, which sits at almost 10,000 feet above sea level.

pointer6

pointer5

He’s quite fond of it, and even a dedicated classicist like myself can see its charms.

Back to the Thrift Store

Regular readers will know of our affinity for thrift stores. Amid the detritus of other people’s castoffs, you occasionally find wonderful items with many more years left on their lifespans. For folks on a tight budget, a thrift store can be an ideal way to assemble a tasteful, classic wardrobe.

It’s also an excellent source of American made goods.

The typical closet of a previous generation included far more items of American provenance, so a thrift store (at least for now) is far more likely to contain items that appeal to the Americanophiles among us.

While in Colorado on vacation a couple of weeks ago, I found a trio of American made ties at a thrift shop in Cañon City–after my son and I finished a whitewater rafting trip in the Royal Gorge: two Brooks Brothers ties (one of which still had the original sales tag) and one from Lands’ End, in perfect condition, possibly never worn.

landsendtie
A Land’s End tie, hearkening back to when such things were made in the United States
IMG_4147
The classic BB#1 repp tie from Brooks Brothers

IMG_4145

Bob Goodman & Co. Ties

We’ve been on something of a hiatus recently, so it’s good to be back, sharing our love for items of classic style, made expertly and lovingly on these shores.

The companies we’ve featured on Classic American Style come in many different flavors of familiarity. Some have been a part of our lives for years and represent some of the most trusted names in classic style. Others are more recent creations whom we have been well pleased to get to know better. And then there are a few who, despite our economic engagement with them, remain total strangers.

Bob Goodman & Company falls into that last category.

I recently had the pleasure of purchasing a tandem of Bob Goodman repp ties from the American Suit Store. (Note: Despite the moniker, only some of what the American Suit Store sells is American made.) The ties were offered at the relatively modest  sum of $110 for two.

IMG_4144

Let me not mince words here: At that price, they represent what I believe to be the best value in American neckwear today.  I would compare them favorably to Brooks Brothers, but at a cost that is more than 30 percent south of what Brooks charges. The silk is both sturdy and sumptuous, and the knots produce a dimple as well as any in my collection.

bobgoodmantie

Relentlessly traditional, the ties are 3.5″ wide (although the American Suit store hears rumors that the width may be curtailed to 3.25″ next year). They come in a number of different color combinations, all of which would have a welcome home in a traditional wardrobe.

Despite my affinity for the company’s neckwear, I’ve been able to learn very little about Bob Goodman, aside from the fact that his eponymous company makes its ties in New Jersey. From what I gather, the ties are available only at select men’s stores, the American Suit Store being one of only two online examples I could find.

Still, it’s an exceptional product, one that I would strongly recommend our readers consider.